![]() ![]() Now, with the Divers Sixty-Five Caliber 400 Limited Edition for HODINKEE, we can use the bezel as a countdown timer to our heart's content, rather than the conventional use of dive bezel as a way to track elapsed time. They were more common 50 years ago, sure, but now? They've been almost entirely abandoned. But for some reason, we barely see them in new watches today. We think countdown bezels are just about the coolest and most useful bezel out there. It's all surrounded by the black aluminum bezel insert. We then complemented the dial with light chartreuse-hued hour markers, filled with blue-glowing SuperLumiNova, in the shape of dots and polygonal shields. We opted for a muted dark green shade on the dial, in a tone that feels inherently old school but also fresh enough that it's not iterative. In developing the design of the watch, we took a multifaceted approach, imagining the Divers Sixty-Five as inspired by both vintage dive watches and field watches, making it the all-in-one tool watch we've always wanted. Oris utilized this approach after identifying key points of failure in a traditional ball-bearing, bidirectional winding system, all in order to maintain reliability and the company's promise of a 10-year service interval. Oris ditched modern convention through the introduction of a smooth, simple sliding-friction clip bearing system that rotates around a fixed pivot – meaning no ball bearings – with a unidirectional winding oscillator. Further, Oris revamped and optimized the gear train by reducing the torque in the mainspring, thereby reducing pressure on the individual working wheels, and redesigning key elements, including the teeth of the wheels, to optimize energy efficiency, contributing to the extended running autonomy and helping maintain rate stability throughout its entire power reserve. ![]() ![]() Then, we have twin mainspring barrels arranged in series that ensure up to 120 hours of running autonomy when the movement is fully wound. There's the high-efficiency escapement, which builds on the historic legacy of the Swiss lever through the use of silicon for the escape wheel and anchor. Recalling the success of the Caliber 652 for the company in the 1960s, the Caliber 400 is another landmark achievement for Oris, emphasized by its user-friendliness and worry-free wearability.īut the most exciting details of the Caliber 400 require a deeper look inside. It features an entirely new architecture that was independently developed by Oris over five years. The self-winding Caliber 400, then, is a return to form for Oris in many ways. Then, there was the introduction of the in-house Oris Caliber 652, a chronometer-certified, self-winding movement outfitted with a lever escapement that represented Oris's most significant technical advance in 30 years. Two other noteworthy events occurred this same decade – first, there was the introduction of the Oris Star dive watch, our direct inspiration for today's release and the closest comparison for the modern Divers Sixty-Five lineup as a whole. The company was one of the ten largest watch companies in the world by the end of the decade, producing over one million watches, annually. The 1960s were a particularly fertile period for Oris as a manufacturer. The company developed 229 movements between 1904, the year it was founded, and 1981, when it began outsourcing ébauches from outside suppliers. Oris actually has an extensive history of in-house production. ![]()
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